Nerpio sits at over a thousand metres in the south-west corner of Albacete, in the hills where the Taibilla river runs between pines and cliffs, and it is one of the highest villages in the province. The air is dry, the winters are cold and the sky at night is full of stars. The surrounding Sierra de Segura country is rough and sparsely populated, and for riders coming from the plains of La Mancha the landscape is a surprise, with long ridges and deep, wooded valleys.
The municipality of Nerpio is known among archaeologists for the number of rock shelters in its cliffs that contain prehistoric paintings, belonging to the Mediterranean Basin rock art tradition that UNESCO listed in 1998. As a rule, the paintings are small, fragile and sometimes hard to find, so ask in the village about guided visits and the local interpretation centre rather than wander the cliffs alone.
The roads in the area are a pleasure for those who like quiet and curves. The route up from Yeste climbs through pine forest in a succession of bends, with good views and almost no traffic. The surface can be patchy, with the odd rockfall and stretch of gravel, and the weather turns quickly, so go prepared, especially in winter, when snow and ice are real risks. In summer the hot afternoons are tempered by the altitude.
Nerpio has about sixteen hundred people, with a few shops and bars, but for reliable fuel you should plan on Yeste, a town of some thirty-five hundred, about twenty-seven kilometres away. The cooking of the region is shepherd's food, with migas, stews and roasted lamb, and the honey and cheese of the sierra are worth buying.
The ride links Zona 7 with the Cueva de las Palamas and with the Renaissance town of Úbeda, an unusual trio of landscapes. Late spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, with clear air and gentle temperatures. Bring layers, since mountain mornings can be cold even in May.