Ōminesan-ji is a temple on the summit of Mount Sanjō, one of the peaks of the Ōmine range in the heart of the Kii peninsula, and it holds a special place in Japanese religion. It is a centre of Shugendō, the mountain ascetic tradition that blends Buddhism, Shinto and older mountain worship, and its practitioners, the yamabushi, undergo arduous training on the ridges. The temple is famous for another reason too: the mountain is still closed to women by tradition, one of the last such places in Japan, which has become a subject of ongoing debate.
The summit is reached on foot, typically from the hot spring village of Dorogawa, a climb of a few hours through forest, with sections involving chains and rock. The temple is open only during the summer season, roughly from May to September. Along the route, practitioners undertake ordeals such as being dangled over a cliff edge. For a rider, the mountain is a backdrop and a story rather than a destination, unless you are prepared to hike.
Dorogawa itself is a charming little onsen village with wooden inns and a single main street lined with lanterns, and it makes a good base. The roads into this area are classic Kii peninsula riding: narrow, twisting mountain routes through steep forested valleys, with the occasional tunnel and bridge. Route 309, which passes nearby, is a scenic mountain road with many bends. Expect landslide repairs, single-lane stretches and gravel on the surface, and be very careful in wet weather. Japan drives on the left.
Yoshino, about seventeen kilometres away, is famous for its cherry trees, which cover the slopes in tens of thousands and draw enormous crowds in early April. Fuel stations are scarce in the mountains, so fill up in Yoshino, Gojō or another town before heading in. Convenience stores are a lifesaver here for food and coffee. The local water from the springs of Dorogawa is renowned for its quality. In autumn, the maples on the mountainsides turn deep red, and the air is crisp and clear.