Gwangneung is the forest of kings. The royal tomb of King Sejo, the seventh king of Joseon, and his queen lies on a wooded hillside in the northern part of Namyangju, and the surrounding forest, protected for more than five hundred years, is one of the best-preserved old woods in Korea.
The ride that ends here is the second part of a mountain tour, and the hills of Yangpyeong are not far to the east. The roads are winding and quiet, with bends through oak and hornbeam woods, and the surface is generally good, though patched in places. Traffic is light on weekdays, and the lanes between the villages are pleasant. In autumn, the red maples and golden ginkgoes draw crowds to the arboretum, so a weekday or early start is best.
The forest has an unusual status. Its trees, among them old hornbeams and oaks, shelter a wide range of wildlife, including the rare black woodpecker, and the whole area is a biosphere reserve. The royal tombs of the Joseon dynasty, including this one, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and they are laid out according to the geomantic principles of Korea, with a mountain behind and water in front. A stone path leads past the figures of civil officials, horses and sheep, which guard the tomb.
Fuel and food are available in Namyangju and Pocheon, and several restaurants stand along the roads, serving hearty country food. Pocheon is known for its makgeolli, a rice wine, and its galbi, grilled beef ribs. Cafes near the arboretum are open in the daytime.
Walk slowly beneath the trees if you stop. The quiet of the forest is the same silence that kings once demanded.