In the Swabian Forest east of Stuttgart, the Roman frontier ran as straight as a ruler for some eighty kilometres, ignoring hills and valleys in a way that still puzzles historians. Welzheim lies on this straight stretch of the Upper German-Raetian Limes, and the town had two Roman forts, the west and east forts, with a civil settlement around them. The northern part of the settlement near the east fort is one of the components of the Limes World Heritage Site, and the Ostkastell has been turned into an archaeological park with a reconstructed gate.
The Swabian Forest is a region of wooded hills, deep valleys and small villages, a green island between the busy urban areas of Stuttgart and Schwäbisch Hall. The forests are mostly spruce and beech, and the valleys are cut by streams and rivers that once powered mills. The landscape is gentle but varied, with plenty of viewpoints, lakes and old farms.
The riding is excellent, with countless curves and little traffic outside weekends. Roads wind through the forests and valleys, and the climbs and descents are steep in places. The roads to Murrhardt, Gschwend and Kaisersbach are all worth exploring, and the Ebnisee, a small lake in the forest, is a popular stop. Watch for cyclists, hikers and speed cameras, especially on weekends, when the area is popular with day trippers from Stuttgart.
Welzheim is a small town with a pleasant centre and a long history. Nearby Alfdorf and Kaisersbach are quiet villages, and Schorndorf, the birthplace of Gottlieb Daimler, is a short ride south in the Rems valley. The Swabian Forest is also known for its mills, and a mill trail links several restored mills in the valleys.
Welzheim, right beside the site, can handle fuel and lunch. Swabian cooking is generous and unfussy: Maultaschen, large pasta pockets filled with meat and spinach, Spätzle, egg noodles often served with cheese, and Rostbraten, roast beef with onions. Several forest inns around the Ebnisee serve exactly that under the trees.