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Voinești - Măilătoaia

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The Rucăr-Bran corridor is one of the oldest passages through the Carpathians, and at its southern end, in the hills around Câmpulung Muscel, the Romans built a frontier line to guard it. The Limes Transalutanus, the frontier east of the Olt, ran north through this area, and small forts and watchtowers like the one at Voinești-Măilătoaia watched the valleys and the approaches to the pass. The sites are now low earthworks in fields and forest edges, and they belong to the Frontiers of the Roman Empire listing for Dacia, added by UNESCO in 2024.

Câmpulung, a few kilometres away, was the first capital of the principality of Wallachia in the fourteenth century, and its old princely church and monastery are among the oldest religious buildings in the country. The surrounding hills, the Muscel, are dotted with villages, orchards and woods, and the people here are known for their strong traditions and fierce attachment to the land.

The road north from Câmpulung toward Bran is one of the classic rides of Romania: it climbs through Rucăr and the Dâmbovicioara gorge area, winds over the pass at Giuvala and drops toward the castle of Bran, often marketed as Dracula's castle, with views of the Piatra Craiului ridge, a long sharp limestone crest, and the Bucegi mountains. The road is twisty, scenic and well surfaced, but busy with trucks and tourists, so pick your moment. Side roads into the villages are quieter, narrower and rougher.

Voinești and Valea Mare Pravăț are small villages with a shop or two. Câmpulung has fuel, supermarkets and restaurants, and Rucăr, further up the valley, has fuel and accommodation. Local food is mountain fare: polenta with cheese, sour cream and fried eggs, grilled meats, trout from the mountain streams and pastries with sweet cheese.

Come in late spring, when the orchards are in blossom and the meadows full of flowers, or in autumn, when the forests blaze with colour and the apples ripen. Summer brings warm days and afternoon storms, and winter makes the high roads icy. Ride the corridor slowly, stop on the pass to look back toward the plains of Wallachia, and you will see why travellers, traders and soldiers have used this route for two thousand years.

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