Mission San Buenaventura, founded in 1782 by Father Junípero Serra, was the last of the missions he established, and its church and garden are a quiet, peaceful corner in the middle of the town. Ventura Pier, built in 1872, is the longest wooden pier in California, a long wooden promenade that pokes out into the Pacific, and fishermen and walkers stroll along it.
The sea here is rich and the weather is mild. The Channel Islands, a group of rugged islands that form a national park, lie about thirty kilometres offshore, and boats leave from Ventura Harbor to carry visitors to them. On the way you may see dolphins, whales and seabirds. To the north, the road follows the coast through Rincon, a famous surf break, with the ocean on one side and the cliffs on the other, and the highway runs under the shadow of the Santa Ynez mountains. Inland, Highway 33 leads up the Ventura river valley to Ojai, a little town with orange groves and an arts scene.
The riding is of two kinds. The coastal run on Highway 101 is fast, wide and busy, with beautiful views of the sea and the islands, and it is a fine way to get north to Santa Barbara, but the traffic can be dense, especially at weekends. The inland roads, particularly Highway 33 and the smaller roads in the hills, are tighter, with curves, climbs and wide vistas of orange and avocado groves. The surface is generally good, though sections are rough, and in autumn the Santa Ana winds can be strong and hot.
Fuel, food and coffee are easy, with Ventura offering every service, and the old downtown has a good selection of cafés, restaurants and breweries. Fish tacos and fresh seafood are staples, and a coffee on the pier in the morning is a good start. Try an avocado, as the area is a big producer.
Walk to the end of the pier at sunset. The sky turns orange, the islands become shadows, and the sea is calm. It is the very picture of the California coast.