Dealul Tărăvăilor is a hill above the village of Var, near Creaca and Jibou, in Sălaj county, north-western Romania, and like many hilltops in this part of the country, it held a Roman watchtower on the frontier of the province of Dacia. The Limes Porolissensis, as the northern frontier is known, was a system of towers, forts and earthworks guarding the roads leading to the great fortress of Porolissum, and the towers were placed on hills with views over the valleys, so that signals could pass quickly along the line.
The Someș valley runs through the area, and the hills on either side are covered with forests, pastures and orchards. The villages are small and traditional, with wooden houses, churches and farms, and life here moves at the pace of the seasons. The Meseș mountains, to the south-west, form a natural barrier between Transylvania and the Pannonian plain, and the Romans used them as part of their defensive line. Zalău, the county capital, has a museum of history and art with finds from Porolissum.
The riding in this part of Sălaj is rural and gentle. The roads wind through the hills and valleys, with views over the countryside, and traffic is light. Surfaces vary, with good asphalt on main roads and potholes and gravel on minor ones. Horse carts, livestock and village dogs share the roads, so ride carefully through villages. The climate is continental, with warm summers and cold winters, and spring and autumn are lovely, with fresh green or golden colours on the hills.
Var and Creaca are small villages with basic services, and Jibou, five kilometres away, is a town of eleven thousand with fuel and shops. The Wesselényi botanical garden in Jibou is worth a visit. Porolissum, to the south-west, has the impressive remains of a Roman fort and town, and is a must for anyone interested in the Roman frontier. Local food in village guesthouses is homemade and hearty. Climbing to a hilltop like Dealul Tărăvăilor, with the valley spread out below, gives a sense of how the Romans watched over this distant frontier.