The Meseș mountains, a low, wooded range in north-western Romania, formed a natural barrier for the Roman province of Dacia, and the Romans fortified it with a line of watchtowers, walls and fortlets. Near the village of Treznea, on a hill known as Dealul Mănăstirii, the Monastery Hill, the remains of one of these defences overlook the valleys. It is part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire, Dacia, listed by UNESCO in 2024, and a short distance away lies Porolissum, one of the largest Roman settlements in Dacia, with a reconstructed gate and an amphitheatre.
Treznea has a darker, more recent history. In September 1940, after northern Transylvania was transferred to Hungary, Hungarian troops killed dozens of villagers here, and a memorial commemorates the victims. The surrounding hills are covered in beech and oak forests, with meadows and orchards around the villages, and the area is known for its traditional wooden architecture and rural life. In spring, the meadows bloom with wildflowers, and in autumn, the forests turn gold and red.
The riding in this area is varied and often challenging. The roads over the Meseș mountains climb through forests, with tight bends and steep gradients, while the valleys have gentler, flowing routes through villages and farmland. Road surfaces vary from good asphalt to potholed and gravel, and horse carts, livestock and pedestrians are common. The main road between Zalău and Cluj-Napoca is busy with trucks, so it pays to explore the smaller roads.
Zalău, a town of over sixty thousand, has fuel, shops and restaurants, and is the capital of Sălaj county. The county museum in Zalău has a good collection of Roman finds from Porolissum. Local cuisine includes dishes such as tocană, a meat stew, and papanași, fried dough with sour cream and jam, as well as pălincă, a strong fruit brandy, offered as a welcome in many homes. Take time to talk with locals, who are often generous with stories and hospitality.