Treznea is a quiet village in the hills southeast of Zalău, the kind of place where the loudest sound is a cockerel or a tractor. Yet its name carries a heavy weight in Romanian memory. In September 1940, shortly after northern Transylvania was transferred to Hungary under the Second Vienna Award, Hungarian troops entering the area killed dozens of villagers here, Romanians and Jews, and burned houses. A memorial in the village commemorates the victims. It is a sombre reminder that the beautiful hills of Transylvania have seen terrible things.
The Roman frontier ran close by, along the Meseș mountains, and the site at Cărbunarea near Treznea is one of the points identified as part of the defensive system that guarded the northwestern edge of Dacia. The Meseș ridge was a natural barrier, and the Romans fortified it with watchtowers, earthworks and forts, including the great fortress of Porolissum to the north. These sites form part of the UNESCO listing of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire in Dacia.
The riding around Treznea is a pleasure for anyone who likes quiet, hilly roads. The village sits in the valley of the Agrij river, and roads lead up into the Meseș mountains through forests of beech and oak, with steep climbs, tight bends and views over the hills. Surfaces can be patchy, with gravel and potholes, especially on minor roads. The main road between Zalău and Cluj-Napoca crosses the Meseș ridge nearby, with a well-known climb and curves that local riders enjoy, though it carries significant truck traffic. Weather in the hills can change quickly, and fog is common in autumn.
Treznea is small, with basic shops. Zalău, about nine kilometres away and home to over sixty thousand people, has fuel, supermarkets, restaurants and accommodation. Local food includes hearty soups, grilled meats and pancakes, and you will often be offered pălincă, the strong fruit brandy of the region. Take a moment at the memorial, then ride up into the Meseș hills to find a view. The contrast between the peaceful landscape and its history is striking, and it is worth remembering both.