Tirano sits at the foot of the Bernina route, near the Swiss border, and it is the one place in Italy where a train runs along the street. The red carriages of the Rhaetian Railway start here and climb over the Bernina Pass into Switzerland on a line that is listed by UNESCO, and the Bernina Express leaves from a station just a few steps from the town centre. Watching the little train rattle between parked cars on the main road is one of those charming oddities that make you smile.
The town has about eight thousand people, which means fuel, supermarkets and plenty of places to eat. Its main sight is the Basilica of the Madonna di Tirano, a handsome Renaissance church built after a vision of the Virgin Mary was reported here in 1504, with a grand facade and a plain square in front. Each September a big pilgrimage fills the streets. It is also a good place to try the local cooking: the Valtellina is known for buckwheat dishes, mountain cheeses and bresaola, and the red wines of the terraced slopes above the Adda river.
For the rider, Tirano is the crossroads of three great mountain roads. To the north, the road climbs to the Bernina Pass, at 2,328 metres, with long curves and views of glaciers, and into Switzerland. To the west, the valley leads toward Sondrio, and to the east the Aprica pass rises toward Edolo. Bormio, with the Stelvio and Gavia passes, is a short ride further up the main valley, so this is a natural food stop on a serious pass day.
The valley is narrow and the traffic can be heavy, particularly lorries on the main road, but side roads climb quickly into forest and meadow. Weather in the Alps changes quickly, so check conditions for the high passes and keep waterproofs handy. The southern slope here is warm and sunny, often a good deal warmer than the high passes above.
Order a plate of local pasta, find a table in the sun, and let the engine cool. Whatever the timetable, give yourself an hour here, because the rest of the day is demanding.