Koshk is the local word for a fortified house, and around the oasis of Merv, in south-eastern Turkmenistan, dozens of these buildings survive from the early medieval period. Thulli koshk is one of them, a mud-brick structure with walls built in a distinctive corrugated pattern, like the folds of a curtain, which made them both stronger and more striking. These buildings were probably the homes of wealthy landowners, built to defend against raids, with rooms on two floors around a central hall.
The koshks of Merv date mostly from the Sasanian and early Islamic periods, between the sixth and tenth centuries, and the most famous is the Great Kyz Kala, near the ancient city of Gyaur Kala, whose corrugated walls still rise impressively above the plain. Thulli koshk lies further from the main sites, in the desert farmland of the oasis, and it is rarely visited. The ruins of Merv, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, cover a vast area, with cities from different periods side by side.
Travelling in Turkmenistan requires a visa, which can be difficult to obtain, and tourists usually travel with a licensed guide. Riding a motorcycle here is possible but requires careful planning and permits. The roads around Merv are a mixture of paved highways and dirt tracks through the oasis, and the desert heat in summer is extreme. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with mild temperatures. Dust storms can occur, and water should always be carried.
Bayramaly, about thirty-six kilometres away, is the nearest town with fuel and services, and Mary, the regional capital, has more. Fuel has historically been very cheap in Turkmenistan. The local food includes plov, shashlik and fresh bread, and green tea is drunk throughout the day. The Turkmen are known for their carpets and their horses, the famous Akhal-Teke, with their shimmering coats. Standing in front of a koshk, with its corrugated walls glowing in the evening light and the desert all around, is a strange and moving experience.