Nobody comes to Tahmalaj by accident. For centuries, merchants travelling the Silk Road crossed this stretch of sand and clay, stopping at caravanserais, fortified enclosures and wells along the way, some of which still stand as ruined walls in the desert. The ride names nearby sites such as the Nagym Kalas and the Mansaf caravanserai, part of a cluster of monuments along this old route, and little is known about many of them beyond their names and outlines.
The Karakum, the black sand, covers most of Turkmenistan. It is not an empty sea of dunes but a varied landscape of sand ridges anchored by saxaul trees and tough shrubs, clay pans that shine white with salt, and occasional wells where herders water their camels and sheep. In spring, after the rains, the desert briefly turns green and blooms with tulips and other flowers. In summer, it is extremely hot during the day, and the nights are surprisingly cool. Wildlife includes gazelles, desert foxes, monitor lizards and tortoises.
Riding in Turkmenistan is an experience like no other, and it requires preparation. The country is one of the most closed in the world: visas are difficult to obtain, tourist visas usually require a registered guide or agency, and transit visas allow only a few days and a fixed route. Main roads, such as the one between Mary and Türkmenabat, are asphalted, though often in poor condition, with potholes and patches, and heavy trucks. Anything off the main roads is sand or dirt and needs a suitable bike, experience and a local guide. Police checkpoints are frequent, so keep your papers handy.
Fuel in Turkmenistan is very cheap, but stations are few and far between in the desert, so fill up whenever you can in Mary, Bayramaly or Türkmenabat, and carry extra. There are no services at all in this part of the desert, so carry plenty of water, food and tools. Turkmen hospitality is legendary, and if you meet herders, you may be offered green tea, bread and a place to rest.