Sunwapta Falls is a short walk from the Icefields Parkway and a long way from anything else, and the sound arrives before the view does. The Sunwapta River, which comes down from the Athabasca Glacier, hurls itself over a lip of rock and into a narrow gorge, dividing around an island before dropping again into a canyon of grey quartzite. The water is milky with glacial flour, finely ground rock that gives the rivers of the Rockies their opaque turquoise or grey colour. The name comes from a Stoney word that means turbulent river, which it is.
The Icefields Parkway, Highway 93, runs through the heart of the Canadian Rockies between Lake Louise and Jasper, and here at the northern end it is at its most majestic. The road crosses Sunwapta Pass, at just over two thousand metres, which marks the boundary between Banff and Jasper National Parks, and drops north along the river, past the huge ice fields and the glaciers that hang from the peaks. The surface is excellent, with broad bends, gradients that are never harsh and pull-offs every few kilometres. The speed limit is low, partly to protect wildlife, and traffic in July and August can be dense with campers and tour buses, so you often ride at the pace of the slowest vehicle.
Wildlife is part of the ride. Black bears feed on roadside berries, grizzlies are less often seen, and bighorn sheep and mountain goats appear near the salt licks. Elk graze in the meadows. If you see animals, stay on the bike or well back, and never feed them. Weather in the mountains can change very quickly, with snow possible even in summer at the pass, so carry warm and waterproof layers. A national park pass is required for the parkway, and it must be displayed.
Fill the tank at Saskatchewan Crossing to the south or at Jasper to the north, about fifty kilometres away, and carry water. A lodge near the falls has a small cafe in season. The best months are June to September, with long days and the roads clear of snow. In September the larches turn gold, and the crowds fade, which gives some of the finest riding of the year.