Icefields Parkway: Columbia Icefield to Jasper
Columbia Icefield to Jasper on the Icefields Parkway · one way, about 238 km back to the start
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Why this ride
The stops in between: Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls. The highest point is about 2,400 m. It suits an unhurried touring pace.
Roadbook
- Columbia Icefield
start
A raindrop that lands on the Columbia Icefield has three possible destinations, and it is hard to find a better place to say so. From the snowy dome at the heart of this ice, meltwater drains to the Pacific by the Columbia, to the Arctic by the Athabasca and Mackenzie, and to Hudson Bay via the Saskatchewan. The icefield itself sits astride the Continental Divide, a plateau of ice some hundreds of metres deep, feeding half a dozen big glaciers, of which the Athabasca is the one you can see from the highway.
The Icefields Parkway, Highway 93, is the road that takes you there, and it is rightly counted among the great motorcycle roads of the world. It runs between Lake Louise and Jasper for about 230 kilometres, through a procession of peaks, glacier-fed lakes, turquoise rivers and waterfalls. The surface is smooth, the bends long and open, and the speed limit low, which is fine: you will not want to hurry. Wildlife is part of the show, with bighorn sheep, black bears, mountain goats and elk beside the road. Sunwapta Pass, at about 2,030 metres, marks the boundary between Banff and Jasper national parks, a short ride north of the icefield.
The Athabasca Glacier has retreated more than a kilometre in the last century, and markers beside the path show where the ice reached in different years. The glacier is an easy walk from the car park, but crevasses and fast-moving meltwater make it dangerous to go far without a guide, so heed the signs. The visitor centre across the road has a cafe and information, and there is a glass walkway at a lookout nearby, though riders may prefer to spend the money on a good lunch.
The nearest pumps are at Saskatchewan River Crossing to the south, which is seasonal, and at Jasper, a long way to the north, so fill the tank at Lake Louise or Jasper and top up when you can. The parkway is open all year, but snow can fall in any month, and winter tyres are required in winter. Dress warmly: the wind off the ice is cold even on a sunny July day.
- Sunwapta Falls
scenic
Sunwapta Falls is a short walk from the Icefields Parkway and a long way from anything else, and the sound arrives before the view does. The Sunwapta River, which comes down from the Athabasca Glacier, hurls itself over a lip of rock and into a narrow gorge, dividing around an island before dropping again into a canyon of grey quartzite. The water is milky with glacial flour, finely ground rock that gives the rivers of the Rockies their opaque turquoise or grey colour. The name comes from a Stoney word that means turbulent river, which it is.
The Icefields Parkway, Highway 93, runs through the heart of the Canadian Rockies between Lake Louise and Jasper, and here at the northern end it is at its most majestic. The road crosses Sunwapta Pass, at just over two thousand metres, which marks the boundary between Banff and Jasper National Parks, and drops north along the river, past the huge ice fields and the glaciers that hang from the peaks. The surface is excellent, with broad bends, gradients that are never harsh and pull-offs every few kilometres. The speed limit is low, partly to protect wildlife, and traffic in July and August can be dense with campers and tour buses, so you often ride at the pace of the slowest vehicle.
Wildlife is part of the ride. Black bears feed on roadside berries, grizzlies are less often seen, and bighorn sheep and mountain goats appear near the salt licks. Elk graze in the meadows. If you see animals, stay on the bike or well back, and never feed them. Weather in the mountains can change very quickly, with snow possible even in summer at the pass, so carry warm and waterproof layers. A national park pass is required for the parkway, and it must be displayed.
Fill the tank at Saskatchewan Crossing to the south or at Jasper to the north, about fifty kilometres away, and carry water. A lodge near the falls has a small cafe in season. The best months are June to September, with long days and the roads clear of snow. In September the larches turn gold, and the crowds fade, which gives some of the finest riding of the year.
- Athabasca Falls
scenic
Athabasca Falls is not tall, about twenty-three metres, but it is one of the most powerful waterfalls in the Rockies, because the whole of the Athabasca River goes through it. Where the river meets a band of hard quartzite it funnels into a narrow slot, and the water thunders down in a white mass, spraying mist that you feel on your face from the railings. Over the millennia the water has carved potholes and smooth channels into the rock, and the canyon below is a sculpture of curves and hollows. Walking paths and bridges allow close views, and the colours of the water, from grey-blue to white, are striking.
The river itself has a story. Its name comes from a Cree word for a place where reeds are scattered, and it was one of the main routes of the fur trade, linking the Pacific watershed to the interior of the continent. In the early nineteenth century traders climbed the valley to Athabasca Pass, a few days' travel to the west, which was used as a route over the Rockies, with a hard crossing in winter. A little way to the north, Jasper House once stood on the river as a fur-trading post, and the town of Jasper inherited its name.
For the rider, the falls lie about thirty kilometres south of Jasper on the Icefields Parkway, at the junction with Highway 93A, an older, quieter loop of road that runs closer to the river and peaks and is worth taking as an alternative, with sections of narrow bends and views of Mount Edith Cavell. The main road is wide and smooth, with sweeping views of Mount Kerkeslin and the Whirlpool valley. Traffic is heavy in summer, with coaches and campers, and wildlife is common, including elk, which sometimes stand on the verge in the evening, and bears. Mind the lower speed limits.
Jasper itself, twenty-seven kilometres north, is the nearest town, with fuel stations, supermarkets, cafes and motels. In July 2024, a wildfire destroyed many buildings in the town, and rebuilding has been under way, so check current conditions. The best light on the falls is in the morning, when the sun picks out the rainbows in the spray. Spring melt makes the falls loud and muddy, while autumn is clear and quiet. Parks Canada requires a pass for the parkway, and the stop is a short, easy walk from the car park.
- Jasper
finish
Jasper is a mountain town of about four thousand people in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, and it feels like it was built on a wild animal path. Elk wander across lawns and down the main street, deer graze in gardens and signs warn of bears. The Athabasca River runs past the town below ridges of grey limestone, and the Jasper Park Lodge, a grand old resort on Beauvert Lake, sits among spruce just beyond. In July 2024 a major wildfire swept into town and destroyed a large number of buildings, and the community has been rebuilding since, so it is worth checking current conditions and services before planning a stay.
The Yellowhead Highway, Highway 16, leaves town to the west and is a rider's delight. It follows the Miette and Fraser rivers through the park, then crosses the Yellowhead Pass at about 1,130 metres, a low and gentle crossing of the Continental Divide that marks the boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. The pass is named for a fur trader known as Tête Jaune, or Yellow Head, who is said to have used it in the early nineteenth century. The road is broad and smooth, with sweeping views, long curves, and forests of lodgepole pine and spruce running up to snow-streaked peaks. It is a relaxed ride rather than a technical one.
The great sight along the way is Mount Robson, which at 3,954 metres is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, and its flanks are often wrapped in cloud, so a clear view is a lucky thing. Waterfalls spill from glaciers on the face, and a trail leads to Berg Lake, with its floating icebergs. The valley around Robson is also home to the Fraser River, which begins in the nearby mountains. Weather matters here: summers are warm, with long daylight until late, while snow can fall in the passes in September, and by November the highway can be icy.
The road from Jasper to McBride goes through the small community of Tête Jaune Cache and Valemount, and the distances between towns are long. Jasper has fuel stations, shops and restaurants, though capacity may be limited after the fire, and Valemount, about a hundred and twenty kilometres west, has more. Fill up before leaving, since there are few stations in between. Wildlife on the road is the main danger, particularly at dawn and dusk, when moose, elk and bears appear without warning.