The Splügen Pass is the border between the Swiss canton of Graubünden and the Italian province of Sondrio, and at 2,114 metres it is one of the most beautiful ways to move between them. It has been in use since Roman times, and the road that crosses it today follows a route that was important for trade between Lombardy and the Rhine, with wine, grain and iron travelling north and salt and cattle south. Its character is bleak and open, with bare slopes, scattered boulders and a vast sky.
On the Swiss side, the road climbs from the village of Splügen in a long series of broad, easy bends, through meadows and then bare rock, to the border post at the summit. The surface is generally good, and the views are of a wide, empty landscape. The Italian side is wilder. From the pass the road drops in a dramatic series of hairpins through a stepped valley, crossing the river and clinging to the mountainside. In places the road is sheltered by concrete galleries to protect it from avalanches, and the waterfalls come down beside it, spraying the tarmac.
This stretch is part of the Via Spluga, an old mule path that has been restored as a walking route, and sections of the cobbled track can be seen from the road, with stone bridges and old customs houses. The walkers who follow it reach the Cardinello gorge, where the path hangs on the cliff above a deep ravine. The gorge was a major hazard for travellers in the Middle Ages, and the road along it is still a sight to see. On the Italian side, the valley is also known for its chestnut trees and for waterfalls that fall from the cliffs, and the village of Campodolcino is the main settlement.
The pass is closed in winter, usually from about November until the end of May, and the opening depends on snow clearing. Even in summer, the weather can be cold, and mist is common. Check opening dates and the situation at the border before you set out, and carry your passport or identity card, even though checks are usually informal. The air is thin and the wind is sharp, and the light at sunrise is very fine.
There is little at the top, with only a few small stalls and a cafe in summer. The nearest fuel is at Splügen on the Swiss side and Chiavenna, about twenty-one kilometres to the south, on the Italian side, and Campodolcino has limited services. Fill the tank before the climb, and keep some euros and Swiss francs in your pocket.