Spittal an der Drau lies in the broad valley of the Drau in Upper Carinthia, at the foot of the Goldeck mountain, and it is the main town of the region, a busy crossroads of roads and railways between Salzburg, Villach and the Italian border. Its centrepiece is Schloss Porcia, a Renaissance palace of the sixteenth century, built for a wealthy nobleman, Gabriel von Salamanca, and later passed to the Porcia family, whose name it carries. The courtyard, with its three storeys of graceful arcades in pale stone, is regarded as one of the finest Renaissance courtyards north of the Alps, and in summer it is used for open-air theatre and concerts.
The old centre is small but pleasant, with pastel houses, arcaded shops and a pedestrian street, and a few cafes where locals meet in the afternoon. A little to the north-west lies the Millstätter See, a long, clear lake that is warm enough for swimming in summer and is ringed by villas, beaches and the resort of Seeboden. Above the town, a cable car climbs the Goldeck to a viewing platform and hiking trails, with views across the Drau valley to the Hohe Tauern and the Carnic Alps.
For riders, Spittal is the start of the road up to the Katschberg. The route follows the Lieser river, then climbs over the pass, at about sixteen hundred and forty metres, into Salzburg's Lungau region, with a good surface, regular bends and a rhythm that suits a smooth, steady ride. The motorway runs under the mountain through a tunnel, which leaves the old road quiet. The pass is usually open all year, though snow and ice are possible in winter. Beyond it, the road continues toward Obertauern and the Radstädter Tauern, a classic Alpine crossing.
Fuel is easy in Spittal, a town of nearly thirteen thousand, with stations along the main roads and supermarkets, so it is the place to fill the tank before the pass. Local food includes Kärntner Kasnudeln, large, crimped dumplings filled with cheese and herbs, which are served with melted butter. The best months are June to September, when the lake is warm.