The Hangu Pass is one of the legendary places of Chinese history. According to tradition, it was at the old Hangu Pass, guarding the narrow road between the Central Plain and the Wei valley, that the philosopher Laozi, leaving China on the back of an ox, was asked by the gatekeeper to write down his wisdom before passing, and the result was the Tao Te Ching. That pass lies further west, near Lingbao. In 114 BC, under the Han dynasty, the pass was moved east to Xin'an county, near Luoyang, and it is the remains of this later Han pass, with its gate, walls and stretches of ancient road, that form part of the Silk Roads World Heritage site, on the route between the capitals of Chang'an and Luoyang and on towards Central Asia.
The landscape here is the loess country of western Henan: yellow earth hills cut by deep gullies, terraced fields of wheat and maize, villages of brick and earth, and the Yellow River flowing not far to the north. In spring, the hills turn green and fruit trees blossom, and in summer the heat can be intense. Luoyang, to the east, was the capital of several dynasties and is famous for the Longmen Grottoes, thousands of Buddhist caves and statues carved into the cliffs along the Yi River, and for the White Horse Temple, said to be the first Buddhist temple in China. In April, the city celebrates its famous peonies with a festival.
Riding in China presents particular challenges for foreigners. International driving permits are not recognised, so a Chinese licence and registered vehicle are required, and many cities restrict or ban motorcycles in their central areas. Expressways are generally closed to motorcycles. On the national and provincial roads, traffic is mixed and unpredictable, with trucks, buses, electric scooters, tricycles and pedestrians. The roads through the loess hills can be dusty in dry weather and muddy in the rain.
Yima and Xin'an have fuel, shops and restaurants, and Luoyang, about twenty-five kilometres away, is a large city with everything you need. Try the Luoyang water banquet, a series of soups and stews served one after the other, and the local noodles, and do not miss the Longmen Grottoes at sunset.