Şile is a small town on the Black Sea coast of Istanbul province, about seventy kilometres from the city centre, and for the city's riders it is the nearest place where you can smell the sea air and see waves. A white lighthouse stands on the cliff above the harbour, built in the 1850s under the Ottomans, and the ruins of an old fort sit on a rock in the bay. The town is known for its hand-woven cotton cloth, Şile bezi, a light, airy fabric that is embroidered and sold in shops along the main street.
Between Istanbul and the coast lies the Belgrad Forest and the wooded hills that supply the city with water, a belt of oak, beech and hornbeam that is cool and shady in summer. The roads that cross it are some of the best riding near the city, with long, smooth bends and little traffic on weekdays. At the coast, the land opens into low cliffs, sandy beaches and fishing villages, and the sea is a darker, rougher blue than the Mediterranean. Ağva, a little further east, is a quiet river village with guesthouses and fish restaurants.
The swim is the point, and on a hot weekend in July or August the beaches are crowded, with families, umbrellas and tea sellers. Water temperatures are cool, and currents and waves can be strong, so respect the flags. On weekdays and in spring and early autumn the beaches are calmer. The town fills with Istanbul day trippers on weekends, so aim to arrive early and leave before the afternoon rush back to the city, which can be heavy.
Şile has fuel stations, restaurants and cafés, and the fresh fish and grilled meatballs are good. Mist or sea fog can roll in without warning, and the coast road can be slippery. Wear a layer, bring cash and enjoy the cool air.