Istanbul · Black Sea Forest and Şile Coast

A 376 km loop from Polonezköy forest

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Why this ride

Forest, Black Sea air and an early-start escape. Out of Mahmut Şevket Paşa and back again: 376 km, roughly 6 h 28 in the saddle. On the way it passes Şile coast, Ağva river and back through Şile coast. It keeps close to the shore for long stretches.

Roadbook

1. Polonezköy forest start

   Polonezkoy is a small village hidden in the forests on Istanbul's Anatolian side, a short way from the chaos of the city and a world apart. It was founded in 1842, when Prince Adam Czartoryski, a Polish aristocrat in exile in Paris, bought land here and offered it to Polish refugees after the failed uprisings against Russian rule, and the village was originally called Adampol. For a long time, its inhabitants spoke Polish and kept their Catholic customs, and the traces still show in the wooden houses with steep roofs, the small chapel and a handful of restaurants serving Polish dishes alongside Turkish ones.

   As the start and finish of a ride, it is a refuge. The surrounding forest of oak, beech and hornbeam is protected as a nature park, and the lanes leading in are narrow, shaded and quiet on weekdays, with gentle curves and a surface that varies from smooth to patched. Weekends are another matter: Istanbulites flock here for breakfast and walks, and the road can fill with cars and motorbikes, so early starts are best. Heading north toward the Black Sea, the road continues through more forest, with long, easy bends and occasional views of reservoirs, before dropping to the coast near Sile. The nearest districts with fuel and services are Sancaktepe, Umraniye and Atasehir, about a dozen kilometres away, so fill the tank before heading in.

   The village's character comes from its mixed heritage. For generations, it was a place where Polish descendants lived in the Ottoman and later Turkish world, and the community has shrunk as families moved to the city, but a few still live here and keep the old houses. The local cooking is a pleasure: a long country breakfast with eggs, honey, cheeses, olives and fresh bread is a weekend ritual. Polish dishes, such as pierogi and smoked meats, appear on menus.

   The forests here are part of a green belt that surrounds Istanbul on both sides of the Bosphorus, and they provide the city with much of its clean air and water. Squirrels, foxes, wild boar and many species of birds live among the trees, and in autumn the leaves turn gold and copper, while in spring the ground is covered in wildflowers. The air smells of damp earth and leaf mould, and after the city's roar the quiet is striking.

   Bring a light jacket, since the forest is cooler than the city, and allow plenty of time for the return to Istanbul, where traffic can be heavy.

2. Şile coast swim

   Şile is a small town on the Black Sea coast of Istanbul province, about seventy kilometres from the city centre, and for the city's riders it is the nearest place where you can smell the sea air and see waves. A white lighthouse stands on the cliff above the harbour, built in the 1850s under the Ottomans, and the ruins of an old fort sit on a rock in the bay. The town is known for its hand-woven cotton cloth, Şile bezi, a light, airy fabric that is embroidered and sold in shops along the main street.

   Between Istanbul and the coast lies the Belgrad Forest and the wooded hills that supply the city with water, a belt of oak, beech and hornbeam that is cool and shady in summer. The roads that cross it are some of the best riding near the city, with long, smooth bends and little traffic on weekdays. At the coast, the land opens into low cliffs, sandy beaches and fishing villages, and the sea is a darker, rougher blue than the Mediterranean. Ağva, a little further east, is a quiet river village with guesthouses and fish restaurants.

   The swim is the point, and on a hot weekend in July or August the beaches are crowded, with families, umbrellas and tea sellers. Water temperatures are cool, and currents and waves can be strong, so respect the flags. On weekdays and in spring and early autumn the beaches are calmer. The town fills with Istanbul day trippers on weekends, so aim to arrive early and leave before the afternoon rush back to the city, which can be heavy.

   Şile has fuel stations, restaurants and cafés, and the fresh fish and grilled meatballs are good. Mist or sea fog can roll in without warning, and the coast road can be slippery. Wear a layer, bring cash and enjoy the cool air.

3. Ağva river food turn
4. back through Şile coast stop

   back through Şile coast, late in the day.

5. Polonezköy forest finish

   Back at Polonezköy forest. That is the ride.

Where this sits

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