This is high, remote country. The Tambillo to Pincosh segment of the Qhapaq Ñan crosses the puna of the Ancash and Huánuco highlands, east of the Cordillera Blanca, at altitudes of around four thousand metres, part of the stretch of the Inca road that ran north from Cusco through the Andes towards Quito. The road here was the main artery of the empire, with tambos, way stations, every day's walk or so, where travellers, messengers and armies could rest and find supplies. Tambillo, the little tambo, suggests one of those stations. Today, the road survives as a stone-paved path with retaining walls and drainage channels, crossing open grassland, wetlands and passes, and it is one of the best-preserved sections of the network, listed by UNESCO along with the rest of the Qhapaq Ñan.
The Cordillera Blanca, to the west, is the highest tropical mountain range in the world, with dozens of peaks over six thousand metres, including Huascarán, the highest mountain in Peru. The Huascarán National Park, a UNESCO site, protects glaciers, lakes, and the strange Puya raimondii, a giant bromeliad that can grow over ten metres tall and flowers only once in its long life before dying. On the eastern side of the range, the land drops towards the Amazon basin through deep valleys, and the communities live from herding, potatoes and grains.
The riding is for experienced adventurers only. The roads in this region are mostly unpaved, with steep climbs, hairpins, mud, rocks and river crossings, and they can be blocked by landslides in the rainy season, from December to March. Distances are long, and services are few. Altitude is a serious factor: acclimatise in Huaraz for several days, and watch for signs of altitude sickness. The weather changes quickly, with snow possible at any time of year on the passes, and the nights are freezing.
The nearest town with services is Llata, about thirty kilometres away, a small provincial capital, and fuel may be limited. Carry extra fuel, water, food, warm clothing and tools, and let someone know your route. Ask locally about road conditions before setting out. The rewards are immense: empty landscapes, glaciers, lakes, and the sense of following in the footsteps of Inca messengers.