High in the Andes of northern Ecuador, between El Ángel and Pimampiro in the province of Carchi, a stretch of the Qhapaq Ñan, the great road network of the Inca Empire, crosses the páramo, the high grassland that blankets the mountains above the tree line. The Inca built more than thirty thousand kilometres of roads across their empire, from Colombia to Chile and Argentina, linking towns, temples and storehouses, and this northern section, near the empire's frontier, was among the last to be built before the Spanish conquest. The Qhapaq Ñan was inscribed on the UNESCO list in 2014 as a transnational site shared by six countries, with hundreds of individual segments, including this one.
The páramo here is extraordinary. The El Ángel Ecological Reserve, nearby, protects a landscape dominated by frailejones, strange plants with tall, furry stems and rosettes of silvery leaves that look like something from another planet. These plants thrive in the cold, wet conditions of the high Andes, at elevations around 3,500 to 4,000 metres, and they act like sponges, capturing moisture from the mist and feeding the rivers that flow down to the valleys. Andean condors, spectacled bears and deer live in the area, though sightings are rare.
Riding in this region is an adventure. The Pan-American Highway, running through the valleys, is generally in good condition but carries heavy traffic, including trucks and buses. The roads up into the páramo are narrow, often cobbled or unpaved, and become muddy and slippery in the rain, which is frequent. Altitude affects both rider and machine: engines lose power, and riders can suffer from altitude sickness, so take it slow. Weather changes quickly, with cold, rain and fog common even on sunny days, so carry warm and waterproof gear.
El Ángel, a small town about seventeen kilometres away, has basic services, including fuel and simple restaurants, and Ibarra, a city of over a hundred thousand people, has everything. Local food includes hearty soups, potatoes, corn and grilled meats, along with fresh cheese from the highland dairies. Ride up to the páramo early in the day, when the weather is often clearer, and walk among the frailejones. The silence, the cold air and the strange plants make it an unforgettable experience.