High on the eastern side of the Cordillera Blanca, in the Conchucos valleys of Ancash, a stretch of the old Inca road crosses grassy ridges between Cotocancha and the heights known as Alturas de Torre. This is part of the Qhapaq Ñan, the vast Andean road network that tied the Inca empire together, inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 2014. The main trunk here ran north from Huánuco Pampa towards Cajamarca, and in places you can still see stone paving, retaining walls, drainage channels and steps.
The road was built for walkers, llama caravans and runners carrying messages, not for wheels, so it climbs and drops more steeply than any modern road would. Following it on foot for even a short distance gives you a sense of the Inca genius for engineering, with routes chosen to stay on firm ground and stone laid to resist torrential rains.
The nearest town is Pomabamba, about nine kilometres away, a small provincial capital at around 3,000 metres known for its hot springs and its festivals, and a base for treks into the Cordillera Blanca. The landscape is dramatic: deep valleys, cultivated slopes with fields of potatoes and maize, eucalyptus groves near villages and grassland above, with glaciated peaks visible on clear days.
Riding in the Conchucos is serious adventure riding. Roads are often unpaved or partly paved, narrow, with steep drops, landslides in the rainy season from about December to March, and long stretches without services. Altitude matters: you will be riding well above 3,000 metres, sometimes over 4,000, which affects both rider and engine. Acclimatise, drink plenty of water and carry warm layers, as temperatures drop sharply after sunset. The dry season, from May to September, offers the best conditions and the clearest views.
Fuel in Pomabamba and other small towns may be sold from drums or small stations, and quality varies. Carry a spare and fill whenever you can. People in the region speak Quechua as well as Spanish, and a few words of greeting go a long way. Food is simple and filling: soups, potatoes, trout from mountain streams and, at festivals, pachamanca, meat and potatoes cooked in an earth oven.