Osan is a city in Gyeonggi province, south of Seoul and Suwon, best known abroad for the US air base that bears its name, though the base actually lies a little further south, in Pyeongtaek. The city itself is modern and busy, with apartment blocks, markets and a lively centre, and it makes a practical stop on the way south.
Osan has an important place in the history of the Korean War. In July 1950, just north of the city, a small American unit, Task Force Smith, fought the first battle between US and North Korean forces, a delaying action that ended in a costly retreat. A memorial marks the site.
On a hill in the city stands Doksanseong, a mountain fortress dating back to the Three Kingdoms period. According to a famous story, during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, the Korean general Kwon Yul, besieged here without water, had his men pour rice over a horse in full view of the enemy, so that it looked as though they were washing it with abundant water. The Japanese, convinced the defenders had plenty, withdrew. A pavilion called Semadae, the horse-washing terrace, commemorates the tale, and the view from the walls is wide.
As a high point and fuel stop, the fortress hill offers views over the city and the surrounding plain. Fuel and food are plentiful in Osan. The roads south and east lead towards the mountains of Chungcheong and the Seoraksan region, with traffic heavy near the city but easing as you head into the countryside.