In September 2015, after days of torrential rain, the levee of the Kinu River broke near Ishige, and floodwater spread across a huge area of the city of Jōsō, stranding thousands of people on rooftops while helicopters circled overhead. The images shocked Japan. The levees have since been rebuilt and strengthened, and the landscape has returned to its calm rhythm of rice paddies, villages and river embankments, but the event is a reminder of how much this flat land depends on its defences.
Ishige lies in south-western Ibaraki Prefecture, on the Kanto plain between the Kinu and Kokai rivers. The land is flat and fertile, given over to rice, vegetables and pears, and the twin peaks of Mount Tsukuba rise to the east, a landmark visible from much of the plain. Tsukuba is one of Japan's famous mountains, and the roads that climb its flanks are popular with riders, offering curves and views over the plain.
The riding around Ishige itself is easy and relaxed, with straight roads between the fields, but the roads towards Tsukuba and the hills of eastern Ibaraki are more interesting. Traffic can be heavy on the main routes, and the plain is exposed to wind. In summer, the heat and humidity are intense, while in winter, the air is clear and dry.
Ishige is well stocked with fuel stations, convenience stores and eateries. A local speciality is soba noodles made from buckwheat grown in Ibaraki. A short break here, before continuing towards the Bōsō peninsula to the south, offers a chance to appreciate the quiet beauty of the Kanto plain, its big skies and its wide rivers.