Gwangju in Gyeonggi province is not to be confused with the much larger city of Gwangju in the south-west. This Gwangju lies south-east of Seoul, in a landscape of wooded hills and valleys, and it is home to one of Korea's most important historic sites: Namhansanseong, a mountain fortress on the ridges above the city, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014.
In the winter of 1636, when the Qing army invaded Korea, King Injo took refuge in Namhansanseong with his court and soldiers. They held out for forty-seven days, cold and short of food, before the king surrendered and was forced to bow to the Qing emperor at Samjeondo, by the Han river, a humiliation that Koreans still remember. The fortress walls, gates and buildings have been restored, and walking along the walls, with views over Seoul and the surrounding hills, is a highlight.
For riders, the roads up to Namhansanseong are winding and steep, with tight bends and views, and they are popular with motorcyclists and cyclists. The village inside the fortress has restaurants serving traditional food, including chicken stews and grilled meats. To the east, Paldang Lake and the Han river offer scenic riding along the water.
Traffic can be heavy, especially on weekends and in the autumn foliage season. Surfaces are generally good, but the mountain roads demand care. Fuel and food are available in Gwangju and the surrounding towns. As a scenic stretch, the fortress and its views are unforgettable.