Santa Maria in the Val Müstair is, strictly speaking, in Switzerland, not Italy, tucked into the far south-east corner of Graubünden a few kilometres from the border at Tubre. The valley is quiet, with meadows, a small river and low houses with painted facades, and the main language is Romansh, a Latin tongue that survives here in several dialects. It sits at around 1,375 metres, so the air is cool and dry, and in spring the fields are full of flowers.
The great thing here is the convent of St John at Müstair, a few minutes down the valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site that dates back to around the year 800 and is traditionally linked to Charlemagne. Its interior holds Carolingian wall paintings, among the largest surviving cycles from that period, along with later Romanesque frescoes layered over them. It is a rare chance to see something that old in near-original state, and well worth half an hour even if you are not usually a museum person. The nuns still live there.
For riders, the valley is both a stop and a hinge. Over the Ofen Pass, the road climbs to about 2,150 metres and then drops toward Zernez and the Engadin, through the Swiss National Park, where cars must stay on the road and wildlife is protected. In the other direction, the Umbrail Pass goes up to the Stelvio road. Between them you have a loop that is hard to beat in the central Alps, though it is a long day if you add Bormio and the Stelvio itself.
The label points to a fuel stop, and there is a small supply in the valley, but pumps are few and Swiss prices are higher than Italian ones, so it makes sense to arrive with a good tank. The nearest bigger towns are on the Italian side, Bormio on one hand and Glorenza on the other. Bring your passport or identity card, since you are crossing an international border, and remember that Swiss speed limits are enforced firmly, with cameras and fines that are large by any standard. Food is simple and good: barley soup, a dense walnut cake from the Engadin and local cheese with dark bread.