San Antonio de los Cobres lies at about thirty-seven hundred metres in the Puna of Salta, a high, dry plateau in the north-west of Argentina where the sky is enormous and the air thin and clear. The town is small, with low adobe houses and a main street that looks across a bare valley to red and ochre hills, and it is the highest place of any size on the route that crosses the Andes toward Chile. The name means Saint Anthony of the Coppers, from the mines that once drew people to the area, and the Collas, the indigenous people of the Puna, still make up most of the population, with llamas, alpacas and vicuñas on the hills around.
The railway that climbs from Salta, known as the Train to the Clouds, passes here on its way to the great Polvorilla viaduct, a huge steel bridge more than four thousand metres above sea level, and the town is a halt for tourists. The cold is a constant presence: nights are below freezing in most months, the sun is intense by day, and the wind is dry and cutting. Travellers should expect altitude sickness, with headaches and breathlessness, and take time to acclimatise, drinking water and moving slowly. A cup of coca leaf tea, offered in most cafes, is the traditional remedy.
For motorcyclists, this is the start of one of the most dramatic roads in South America. The route over the Abra del Acay, at around forty-nine hundred metres, one of the highest road passes in the world, climbs on gravel and rough surface across barren, wind-swept plateaus, with huge views of volcanic peaks and salt flats. Conditions can change in hours, with snow, ice, loose gravel, and washouts after storms, and the thin air reduces engine power, so carbureted bikes may need adjustment. Services are scarce, and help is far away.
There is a fuel station in San Antonio de los Cobres, but it can run low or ration supplies, so carry extra fuel in a can and do not rely on a single pump. Bring warm clothing, water and a tool kit. The best months are April to November, when the roads are dry, though nights are very cold.