This is the heart of the Thermenlinie, the line of hot springs and vineyards that runs south from Vienna along the foot of the hills, and the sunny south-east slopes grow two local white grapes found almost nowhere else, Zierfandler and Rotgipfler. Together they make a heavy, aromatic wine that has been prized since the Habsburg court. In the village centre, a Renaissance castle and a baroque church stand among the half-timbered houses.
Heurigen are the point of the place. These are family-run taverns that serve their own wine for a few weeks a year, announced by a bundle of pine twigs hung over the door, and the food is cold platters, bread, spreads and roast pork, eaten at long tables under chestnut trees. On a warm evening, the sound of laughter drifts down the lane, and an accordion or a small group sometimes plays. The surrounding slopes are terraced with vines, and above them the forest begins.
The Salzkammergut, named in this stop's label, lies far to the west, but the roads here have their own pleasures. Above the village, the narrow road to the Anninger hill climbs through woods in tight, shaded bends, with views over the plain and the occasional meadow. The surface is generally good, though leaf litter and moss make it slippery. Traffic is heavy on the main road along the foot of the hills, with commuters and truck traffic, so quieter lanes are better. In summer, afternoon heat sits on the basin, and in autumn the vines turn red and gold.
Practically, fuel stations are in Guntramsdorf and Mödling, both close, and every village has a bakery or a shop. Remember that Austrian drink-driving limits are strict, and it is best to taste after the ride is done or to stay locally. Parking is easy near the village centre, and the tram to Vienna runs from Baden. A late afternoon here is hard to beat, with the light on the vineyards.