Salzkammergut Long Day

A 257 km loop

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Why this ride

Scenery first, traffic last, with checkpoints that make sense on a bike. 257 km round from Guntramsdorf - plan on about 5 h 21 of riding. It goes by way of Purkersdorf, Scenic stretch near Tulln and in Großmugl. The climb of the day is near Heiligenkreuz. Long stretches are under trees.

Roadbook

1. Fuel stop near Guntramsdorf fuel

   Fuel at 0 km.

2. High point near Heiligenkreuz pass

   You top out here; the road stops climbing.

3. Near Purkersdorf finish

   Purkersdorf sits at the eastern edge of the Wienerwald, where the Vienna Woods roll down into the city, and it is the last stop before the motorway delivers you back to Vienna. The town follows the narrow valley of the Wien river, and the hills around are covered with beech forest, meadows and small villages, a landscape of gentle curves and green shade.

   The town has one great building. The Sanatorium Purkersdorf, designed by Josef Hoffmann in 1904, was one of the first buildings of modern architecture, a white, cubic structure with geometric details that broke with the ornament of the past. It was a key work of the Wiener Werkstätte, and it still stands, restored, on the edge of town.

   For riders, the Wienerwald offers some of the best roads near Vienna. The Riederberg, on the B1 between Gablitz and Sieghartskirchen, is a long, winding climb through forest, popular with bikers on weekends. Small roads lead to Mauerbach, with its old Carthusian monastery, and over the hills to the Danube. Surfaces are generally good, but watch for cyclists, wildlife and police checks.

   The forests are home to deer, boar and a rich variety of birds, and in autumn the beech woods turn gold and copper. The Wienerwald is a UNESCO biosphere reserve, protecting a landscape that has inspired Viennese composers and painters for centuries.

   Before the city takes you back, look for a green bush or a wreath hung over a doorway: in this part of Austria it means a Heuriger is open, serving the producer's own young wine with bread, cold meats and cheese. One small glass, a long plate, and the last kilometres into Vienna feel shorter.

4. Scenic stretch near Tulln scenic

   Scenic stretch near Tulln, about halfway.

5. Photo stop in Großmugl photo

   Photo stop in Großmugl sits at 147 km, about halfway.

6. Near Hainburg an der Donau, on the way back swim

   Vienna / Eastern Alps return comes up 184 km in.

7. Food stop near Hainburg an der Donau food

   A break here at 220 km.

8. Back to Salzkammergut finish

   This is the heart of the Thermenlinie, the line of hot springs and vineyards that runs south from Vienna along the foot of the hills, and the sunny south-east slopes grow two local white grapes found almost nowhere else, Zierfandler and Rotgipfler. Together they make a heavy, aromatic wine that has been prized since the Habsburg court. In the village centre, a Renaissance castle and a baroque church stand among the half-timbered houses.

   Heurigen are the point of the place. These are family-run taverns that serve their own wine for a few weeks a year, announced by a bundle of pine twigs hung over the door, and the food is cold platters, bread, spreads and roast pork, eaten at long tables under chestnut trees. On a warm evening, the sound of laughter drifts down the lane, and an accordion or a small group sometimes plays. The surrounding slopes are terraced with vines, and above them the forest begins.

   The Salzkammergut, named in this stop's label, lies far to the west, but the roads here have their own pleasures. Above the village, the narrow road to the Anninger hill climbs through woods in tight, shaded bends, with views over the plain and the occasional meadow. The surface is generally good, though leaf litter and moss make it slippery. Traffic is heavy on the main road along the foot of the hills, with commuters and truck traffic, so quieter lanes are better. In summer, afternoon heat sits on the basin, and in autumn the vines turn red and gold.

   Practically, fuel stations are in Guntramsdorf and Mödling, both close, and every village has a bakery or a shop. Remember that Austrian drink-driving limits are strict, and it is best to taste after the ride is done or to stay locally. Parking is easy near the village centre, and the tram to Vienna runs from Baden. A late afternoon here is hard to beat, with the light on the vineyards.

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