Sagada is a village in the mountains where the dead are literally placed above the living. In the limestone cliffs around the valley, the Igorot Kankanaey people have for centuries laid their dead in wooden coffins, which they hang from the rock face or wedge into crevices, in the belief that it brings them closer to the ancestors. Some of the coffins are very old, and the tradition is still practised by a few families. The best-known are at Echo Valley, reached by a short walk through the cemetery.
The village itself is a mix of old and new, with a few thousand people, wooden and stone houses, a stone church that began as an American Episcopal mission in the early twentieth century and a number of simple guesthouses and cafes. The air is cool, since it is at about 1,500 metres, and the surrounding hills are covered in pine. There are caves to explore, among them Sumaguing, a huge cavern with limestone formations, which you visit with a local guide, and rice terraces that climb the nearby slopes. At dawn, people drive to a viewpoint called Kiltepan to watch the sun rise above a sea of cloud.
Local specialities include a strong rice wine called tapuy, hot coffee grown in the hills and a lemon pie that has become the town's unofficial snack. The pace of life is slow, and the main entertainment in the evening is conversation around a fire.
The road in from Bontoc, about eight kilometres away on the map, is part of the Halsema Highway system and is a winding mountain road with generally good concrete, though landslides and washouts are common during the rains. Mist rolls over the pass and visibility can drop quickly, so slow down on the bends. The road is narrow with sheer drops, and trucks and jeepneys take the middle. Early morning is clearest.
Fuel is the critical point. Sagada is small, and services may be limited, so fill up in Bontoc, which is the larger town nearby, or in Baguio before you set out. Carry cash, since cards are rarely accepted, and dress warmly for the evenings.
The best months are from November to May, with cool, clear weather. Respect local customs at the burial sites, and ask before photographing people.