Punakha sits at the meeting of two rivers, the Pho Chhu and the Mo Chhu, the father and mother rivers, and the great dzong of Punakha stands on the tongue of land between them, its whitewashed walls and gold roofs reflected in the water. It was built in the seventeenth century by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the founder of the Bhutanese state, and served as the capital until the middle of the twentieth century. It remains the winter home of the monastic body. Reaching it involves crossing a long wooden cantilever bridge, with prayer flags overhead, and the approach is memorable.
The valley lies at around 1,200 metres, much lower and warmer than Thimphu, and the climate is subtropical. Terraced rice fields step down the hillsides in green or gold depending on the season, with banana, orange and chilli plants beside the houses. In spring the jacaranda trees around the dzong bloom a soft purple, a contrast to the white walls. A suspension bridge, hung with prayer flags and one of the longest in Bhutan, spans the Pho Chhu, and it is a pleasant walk to cross it, with a view of the river below.
Not far off, across the rice fields, stands the temple of Chimi Lhakhang, associated with the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kunley, a fifteenth-century saint known for his unorthodox methods, and where couples go to receive blessings for fertility. The village approaches are decorated with painted phalluses on the walls, a Bhutanese tradition of protection that startles first-time visitors.
For a rider, the road down from Dochula is a long descent with fine views, and the approach to Punakha is a relief after the cold of the pass. The road is paved and well maintained, though landslides can occur in the monsoon, and the temperature climbs as you descend, so you may want to remove a layer. Look out for cattle on the road and for trucks on the narrow bends. Punakha has a few fuel stations, small hotels, and restaurants serving red rice, chilli and cheese, and fresh river fish. The best seasons are March and April, when the flowers bloom, and October to November, when the skies are clear. Summer is hot and humid, with monsoon rain.