The Kumano Kodō is a web of ancient pilgrimage trails across the mountains of the Kii Peninsula, south of Osaka, leading to the three grand shrines of Kumano: Hongū, Hayatama and Nachi. For over a thousand years, emperors, aristocrats and ordinary pilgrims walked these paths through cedar and cypress forest, stopping at small subsidiary shrines along the way. The Nakahechi, the most popular of the routes, leaves the coast near Tanabe and climbs inland through the hills. It is part of the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range, listed by UNESCO in 2004, one of only two pilgrimage routes on the list along with the Camino de Santiago, with which it is twinned.
Walking even a short section is a magical experience. The stone-paved paths wind through tall trees, moss-covered steps lead up to tiny shrines, and the air is cool and damp, filled with birdsong. Villages along the way are small and quiet, with tea houses and guesthouses. The forest smells of wet earth and cedar.
For riders, the roads that follow the routes are a joy. National Route 311 runs inland from near Tanabe towards Hongū, roughly parallel to the Nakahechi, through forested valleys with fast, smooth bends and little traffic. Smaller roads branch off into the mountains, narrow and twisting, often single-track with blind corners and steep gradients. Japanese roads are generally well maintained, but watch for fallen leaves, moss and wet patches in the shade, and for slow-moving trucks. Driving is on the left, and you will need an international driving permit of the right type.
The region is also famous for its hot springs. Yunomine, near Hongū, has one of the oldest onsen in Japan, and Kawayu has a river where hot water bubbles up through the gravel, so you can dig your own bath. After a long ride, there is nothing better.
Tanabe, on the coast, is the gateway town, with fuel, supermarkets and restaurants. In the mountains, fuel stations are scarce and close early, so fill up before heading inland. The best times to visit are spring, with fresh green leaves, and autumn, with red and gold foliage. Summer is hot and humid, with heavy rain, and typhoons can strike in late summer.