Hwaseong-si stretches across the western edge of Gyeonggi province, from the suburbs of Suwon to the mudflats and islands of the Yellow Sea. Its name echoes the famous Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon, but the city itself has its own treasures, both royal and coastal.
In the hills near the city centre lie Yungneung and Geolleung, the royal tombs of Crown Prince Sado and his son, King Jeongjo. Sado's story is one of the great tragedies of Korean history: his father, King Yeongjo, had him locked in a rice chest in 1762, where he died after eight days. Jeongjo, who became king, honoured his father's memory by moving his tomb here and building the fortress at Suwon nearby. The tombs are part of the UNESCO-listed Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty, and the pine forest around them is peaceful.
On the coast, the island of Jebudo is connected to the mainland by a road that disappears under the sea at high tide and emerges at low tide, a phenomenon that draws many visitors. Check the tide times before you go, or you may find yourself stranded. Jeongok and Gungpyeong ports have seafood restaurants and markets, and the sunsets over the mudflats are spectacular.
For riders, the coastal roads offer flat, open riding with views over the sea and the mudflats, while the inland roads are busier. Traffic can be heavy on weekends. Fuel and food are plentiful. As a photo stop, Jebudo at low tide or the mudflats at sunset are unforgettable.