In the extreme south-west corner of the Central African Republic, where the forest runs on into Cameroon and Congo, the Sangha river sweeps past a national park that protects one of the last great blocks of Congo Basin rainforest. Dzanga-Ndoki is part of the Sangha Trinational, a World Heritage area shared by three countries, and it is one of the few places on Earth where you can sit in the forest and watch elephants and gorillas in the open.
That opportunity is Dzanga Bai, a big clearing in the forest, where mineral-rich water brings forest elephants, sometimes more than a hundred at once, together with buffalo, bongo antelope and a good deal of noise. Nearby, researchers and trackers have habituated western lowland gorillas to human visitors over many years, so that small groups can be approached with great care. The forest is thick, hot, humid and full of sound, and a walk in it, with the scent of leaf mould and the chirp of insects, is unlike any other.
Riding is another matter. The roads in this part of the country are laterite tracks, often poorly maintained, passing through logging concessions and small villages, with deep ruts in the wet season, from roughly May to October, and choking dust in the dry months. Bayanga, the village that serves the park, lies far from the capital Bangui, and the journey to it is long. The wider security situation in the Central African Republic is difficult, and many governments advise against travel to parts of the country, so anyone thinking of going must research current advice and arrange transport and permits with the park's management and local operators, not on impulse.
The forest has been home for many generations to the BaAka, hunter-gatherers who know the plants, animals and paths intimately and often work as trackers and guides. Their songs, particularly the polyphonic singing that weaves voices together without a leader, are among the most remarkable in the world. The logging industry has also shaped the area, and conservation in Dzanga-Ndoki is balanced against these economic realities.
As for fuel and supplies, the nearest dependable source is thin and distant, so everything has to be carried or arranged in advance. Take medical supplies, malaria protection, a water filter and cash in Central African francs. Follow your guides, and respect the animals' distance.