Dubrovnik is the place where the Dalmatian coast reaches its theatrical climax: a walled city of pale limestone thrust out into a sea that refuses to be any colour but deep blue. The walls run for nearly two kilometres around the old town, with towers, bastions and the great Minčeta fortress on the landward side, and inside them the marble-paved Stradun runs straight from the Pile Gate to the old port. For centuries this was the Republic of Ragusa, a small, astute maritime state that survived between Venice and the Ottoman Empire through trade, diplomacy and a famously effective tribute system, until Napoleon ended its independence in the early nineteenth century.
The town has seen hard times. The 1667 earthquake destroyed much of it, which is why so much of what you see is Baroque reconstruction, and in 1991 and 1992 it was shelled during the siege by Yugoslav forces. The restoration since then has been remarkable, though you can still find maps at the entrance showing where shells struck. Today the problem is the opposite: crowds, especially when cruise ships are in, and the old town can feel like a stage set by mid-morning in summer.
For riding, Dubrovnik is best seen from above. The Adriatic Highway, the D8, runs along the coast north and south of the city, carved into the cliffs with endless curves, superb views and plenty of traffic in summer, including tour buses and slow camper vans. The road up to Mount Srđ behind the city climbs in tight hairpins to a viewpoint where the whole old town lies beneath you like a model. Southward toward Cavtat and the Konavle valley, the country turns greener and more rural, with vineyards and quieter lanes. Spring and autumn are the best seasons; summer heat can be brutal.
Practicalities matter here. Parking inside the city walls is impossible, and finding a spot near the Pile Gate can be a challenge, so use the public car parks and expect to pay. Fuel is easy to find in the city's suburbs and along the coast. For food, the old town is pricey and touristy; look a little outside for better value, and try local black risotto, fresh fish or Ston oysters from the peninsula to the north. And when the crowds get too much, ride up to Srđ for sunset.