Some holy places are meant to be seen from a distance. Off the coast of Munakata, in Fukuoka Prefecture on the island of Kyushu, the island of Okinoshima rises from the Genkai Sea about sixty kilometres offshore. It is a sacred island where rituals were performed from the fourth to the ninth century, and tens of thousands of offerings, including mirrors, jewels and gold rings, were left on its rocks. Ordinary visitors are not allowed to land, so on the island of Oshima, closer to the mainland, stands the Okitsu-miya Yohaisho, a hall from which worshippers can pray towards Okinoshima across the sea.
The sites form the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Sacred Island of Okinoshima and Associated Sites in the Munakata Region, inscribed in 2017. The Munakata Taisha shrine consists of three parts: the Okitsu-miya on Okinoshima, the Nakatsu-miya on Oshima and the Hetsu-miya on the mainland. Strict rules still govern Okinoshima: women have traditionally been forbidden from landing, and men who were permitted to land, on a limited basis, had to purify themselves in the sea first.
Getting to the Yohaisho means taking the ferry from Kōnominato port in Munakata to Oshima, a short crossing. On the island, roads are narrow and quiet, winding along the coast and over the hills, with views across the sea. On clear days Okinoshima is visible on the horizon. On the mainland, the coast road along the Genkai Sea passes beaches, pine forests and fishing villages. Remember that Japan drives on the left, and that roads are well maintained but speed limits are low and strictly enforced. Typhoons can disrupt ferries in late summer and autumn.
Oshima is small, with a few shops and restaurants near the port; fuel is easier to find on the mainland in Munakata or Fukutsu, so fill up before crossing. The Hetsu-miya on the mainland has a museum displaying the offerings found on Okinoshima, which are designated national treasures. Fresh seafood is excellent here, especially squid and sea bream. Standing at the Yohaisho, looking out over the sea towards an island few can visit, is a strangely moving experience.