High above the Tinée, south of Saint-Étienne, the country turns into great bare shoulders of grass and scree. This stop sits on that upland block between the Tinée and the Cians, under the mass of Mont Mounier, with the villages of Roubion, Beuil and Valberg scattered around its flanks. It is a long way from anywhere: the nearest proper towns are down in the Var valley, and the coast is a good hour and a half away.
The roads that cross this region are the reason to come. The D30 climbs from the Tinée through Roubion to the Col de la Couillole, all tight hairpins carved out of the mountainside with drops on the outside that make you concentrate. From Beuil, the Gorges du Cians run south, and the upper section is cut through deep red slate, the road squeezed under overhangs barely wider than a car. Few rides in the Alpes-Maritimes change colour quite so violently in so few kilometres.
Do not expect a beach. The water up here is snowmelt and spring water, mountain streams that run clear and icy over grey rock. On a hot afternoon a quick plunge of your hands and face is enough to reset you, and in calm spots a brave rider can sit in a pool for half a minute. Choose slack water away from the stream bed after storms, when levels rise quickly.
The nature is pure Mercantour edge. Chamois graze on the high slopes, marmots whistle from the boulder fields in summer, and larch forests turn gold in October. Sheep are moved up here in summer, so expect flocks and guard dogs on the road, and give both room.
Practicalities matter. Fuel is thin on the ground, so fill up in the valleys before climbing and do not count on the small villages. Beuil and Valberg have cafés and some shops in season. Roads above about 1,500 metres can be shut by snow from late autumn into spring, and evening storms in summer are common. Leave early, ride down slowly.