Under a hill in Gwangmyeong, a disused gold mine has been turned into one of the stranger tourist attractions near Seoul. The Gwangmyeong Cave, worked for metal for much of the twentieth century and later used to store salted shrimp, now has light shows, an underground aquarium and a wine cellar stocked with Korean wines, all in tunnels kept at a cool, constant temperature even in the heat of August.
This finish lies on the south-western edge of Seoul, near Gwangmyeong, where the city spills into Gyeonggi province. The Anyangcheon stream, lined with cycle paths and parks, runs north to the Han, and the area is a mix of apartment towers, markets and industrial estates. The KTX high-speed station, an airy steel hall, is a short ride south.
Coming back from Ganghwa Island, the island of dolmens, fortresses and tidal flats at the mouth of the Han, the closing kilometres take the national roads through Gimpo and the western suburbs. With motorcycles barred from Korea's expressways, it is slow going, with traffic lights, buses and heavy traffic at rush hour. Take care at intersections, where turning cars are a hazard.
Gwangmyeong has a big traditional market, where stalls sell rice cakes, fried snacks, kimchi and fresh produce, and the food alleys are full of small restaurants serving noodles, soups and grilled meat. Fuel and convenience stores are on every main road. Eat in the market rather than a chain: perch on a plastic stool, point at whatever the next table is having, and accept the extra side dishes that will arrive whether you ordered them or not.