The North Fork of the Stillaguamish River flows west out of the Cascades here, through a wide valley of farmland and forests, past the small communities of Arlington Heights, Oso and Darrington, on its way to Puget Sound. You are in the hills above the valley, east of Arlington, and on a hot day on the way back from the North Cascades, the river and the small lakes in the area offer a chance to cool off.
The valley has a tragic recent history. In March 2014, a hillside above the river near Oso collapsed in one of the deadliest landslides in American history, burying a neighbourhood and killing forty-three people. The site is now a memorial, and State Route 530 passes right by it. It is a sobering place, and many travellers stop to pay their respects.
The North Cascades Highway, State Route 20, which the ride follows, ranks with the finest mountain roads in the United States, crossing the Cascades through the North Cascades National Park, with jagged peaks, glaciers and turquoise lakes like Diablo Lake. Washington Pass, at the top, has views of the granite spires of Liberty Bell Mountain. The highway is closed in winter, typically from November to April or May, because of avalanche danger.
Swimming in the rivers here is a serious business. The water comes straight from glaciers and snowfields, so it is cold even in midsummer, and the currents can be strong. Choose calm, shallow spots, and never swim alone. Some of the lakes in the foothills are warmer and calmer, with public access points. Arlington has fuel, supermarkets and fast food, and the valley has a few small stores and cafés. The roads are generally good, two-lane highways with gentle curves, but they can be busy with logging trucks and RVs.