Every year, groups of Wixárika people, known in Spanish as Huichols, leave their homes in the Sierra Madre Occidental and walk, ride or drive hundreds of kilometres east to Wirikuta, the sacred desert in San Luis Potosí where, in their tradition, the sun was born. Along the way they stop at a series of sacred places, springs, hills and water holes, where they leave offerings and perform ceremonies. Natsitacua is one of these places, out on the high plains near the border of Zacatecas and San Luis Potosí, and the names of the neighbouring stops on the route, such as Nihuetaritsié, are in the Wixárika language.
The pilgrimage route to Wirikuta has been proposed for recognition as a World Heritage Site, and it is one of the oldest living pilgrimage traditions in the Americas. The pilgrims collect peyote, a sacred cactus, in the desert, and the journey is a spiritual renewal for the communities. Mining projects in the Wirikuta region have caused conflict in recent years, as the Wixárika fight to protect their sacred lands. Visitors should treat these places with great respect, and avoid disturbing offerings or ceremonies.
The riding in this part of Mexico is across the vast high plateau, the altiplano, at over two thousand metres, with long straight roads through semi-desert, dotted with yuccas, cacti and mesquite. The distances are great and the villages few, so carry water and plan fuel stops. The roads are paved on the main routes but can be rough and unpaved on the minor ones, and topes in villages are frequent. The sun is intense, and the nights can be cold. The dry season, from October to May, is the best time to ride.
The nearest settlement listed is La Herradura, a small village about twenty kilometres away, so fuel and services are limited; fill up in larger towns such as Zacatecas, Fresnillo or Salinas before setting off. Real de Catorce, an old silver mining town in the mountains of San Luis Potosí, near Wirikuta, is a popular destination, reached through a long tunnel. Mexican food on the road is simple and good: tacos, gorditas and enchiladas. Riding across the altiplano at dawn, with the light spreading over the desert, is unforgettable.