Namyangju lies where the Han river's two great branches come together, the North Han running down from the mountains of Gangwon and the South Han from the east, and the point where they meet, a few kilometres east of the city at Dumulmeori on the Yangpyeong bank, is one of the loveliest spots near Seoul. The name means two waters, and the broad, calm river, framed by hills, is a favourite subject for photographers at dawn, when mist rises from the surface. Paldang, where the river is dammed, has become the favourite gathering place for riders and cyclists from the capital.
The city has several things worth knowing. It is the birthplace of Jeong Yak-yong, known as Dasan, the great scholar of the late Joseon dynasty who wrote on government, science and farming, and his home and memorial are open to the public, with a small museum and a garden by the river. Namyangju also has the royal tombs of Gwangneung, the resting place of King Sejo, set in a forest that is one of the best-preserved in the country, and those of Hongneung and Yureung, where the last two emperors of Korea are buried.
With ninety thousand inhabitants, Namyangju has plenty of fuel and food, and the stations along the riverside road are open late. The roads along the river are among the pleasantest around Seoul, with views of the water and wooded slopes, and a good number of cafes and restaurants overlooking the river, serving coffee, noodles and grilled fish. Weekends bring many riders, cyclists and day-trippers, so the roads are busy, and it is better to come early. On a weekday morning, the river is quiet and the light soft.
Remember that motorcycles are not allowed on Korean expressways, so the routes from Seoul follow the riverside national road and its neighbours, which carry plenty of traffic and have speed cameras every few kilometres. These are marked by signs, and drivers slow down, only to accelerate again after them. Autumn brings red and gold to the hillsides, and winter freezes the river edges and covers the reeds in frost. In summer, humidity is high, and sudden downpours in the monsoon season can make the road slippery. Plan your stops for coffee along the way, and enjoy the water.