Murrhardt lies in the valley of the Murr, deep in the Swabian-Franconian Forest northeast of Stuttgart, a hilly, densely wooded region of streams, mills and small villages that feels a long way from the industrial heartland just to the west. The Romans built a fort here on the Limes, the frontier that ran through these forests from north to south, and a civil settlement grew up around it. The northern part of that settlement lies under parts of the modern town, and while there is little to see, the town's museum displays Roman finds, and the frontier through these woods is protected by its World Heritage status.
The Middle Ages left a stronger mark. A Benedictine monastery was founded here in the ninth century, and the Walterichskirche, on a hill above the town, is named after Walterich, the founder of the monastery, whose grave became a place of pilgrimage. The tiny Romanesque Walterich chapel, attached to the monastery church, is a jewel of twelfth-century stone carving. Murrhardt is also known for its old town and the many mills along the river.
The Swabian-Franconian Forest is a nature park, with deep valleys, sandstone cliffs, waterfalls and lakes such as the Ebnisee, a popular spot for swimming and walking. The forest is mostly spruce and beech, with clearings of meadows and farms, and the villages have half-timbered houses and old inns. The riding here is excellent: winding roads through the forest, up and down the valleys, with little traffic outside the weekends and plenty of curves. The roads around Murrhardt, Welzheim, Kaisersbach and the Ebnisee are particularly popular with riders. Watch for cyclists, walkers, deer and wet leaves in autumn.
Murrhardt has filling stations, bakeries and inns, everything a rider needs. Sulzbach an der Murr and Kaisersbach are smaller villages nearby. Welzheim, to the south, also had a Roman fort, with a reconstructed gate. Swabian food is hearty and delicious: try Maultaschen, large pasta pockets filled with meat and spinach, Käsespätzle, cheese noodles with fried onions, and a glass of Trollinger, the light red wine of Württemberg. In autumn, the forest roads are at their most beautiful.