La Poma lies in the high valleys of Salta province, in north-west Argentina, at the northern end of the Calchaquí valleys and below the wall of the Andes, and it is one of the remotest places on Route 40. The little village was rebuilt after the earthquake of 1930, which destroyed the old settlement, and it is a quiet cluster of low adobe houses and a plaza in a broad dry valley, with snow-capped peaks standing behind. The altitude is well over three thousand metres, and the air is thin, cold and astonishingly clear.
The road that runs through it, part of the famous Route 40, climbs to the Abra del Acay, a pass of 4,895 metres, one of the highest roads in the Americas. The gravel road to the pass is steep, loose and exposed, with no barriers, and it is only suitable for experienced riders with a suitable bike. The surface is rough, the gradients are steep, and the weather is wild, with snow possible at any time of year. The wind is fierce, and the cold on the pass can be severe even in summer, so full protective clothing is essential. Altitude sickness is a real risk, and symptoms such as headache, nausea and breathlessness should be taken seriously. Do not push on if you feel unwell.
The landscape is the high Andean desert, a world of rock, sand and sparse grass, with colourful mountains in shades of red, yellow and grey. Vicuñas, wild relatives of the llama, graze on the high ground, and condors circle overhead. Nevado de Acay, a glaciated peak of more than five thousand metres, stands above the pass. The people of the valley are of Calchaquí and Quechua descent, and their traditions of weaving, herding and farming continue.
For a traveller, the practical side is demanding. Carry extra fuel, food and water, and be prepared for a self-reliant journey. Mobile phone signal is weak or absent, and help can be a long way off. Check the road status before you start, as it is closed after snow or rain. A basic breakfast and a coca-leaf tea at a village house is a good start to the day.