Kund Malir is where Pakistan's coastal desert gives you a proper beach. A long crescent of pale sand opens onto the Arabian Sea, with water that goes from pale turquoise at the edge to deep blue beyond, set against a backdrop of bare, folded hills. It is the sort of beach that photographs well and feels slightly unreal, because it is so far from anywhere and so empty. Karachi families do drive out for the day, and on a winter weekend you will find a few tents and food vendors, but on a weekday the sand is yours.
The coast highway passes close by, running between the Hingol hills and the sea, and the road in is some of the best of the whole Makran ride. Near Buzi Pass the tarmac climbs through low mountains and bends in gentle curves, with the sea flashing on one side. It is smooth, wide and almost empty, so a rider can cover distance quickly, though sand drifts across the surface in places and the occasional truck or stray goat deserves attention. Head winds off the sea are common in the afternoon, and the heat, from April to September, is punishing.
The water is clean and often calm, but this is not a resort. There are no lifeguards, the shoreline can drop away steeply, and currents can be strong, so swim close to the shore and never alone. Shade comes from the tents and the odd rock overhang, so bring a hat. A few roadside stalls sell tea and simple food, though what is on offer varies with the season and the day. Carry your own water.
The nearest pumps are in the larger towns along the highway, with Ormara to the west and the towns near Karachi to the east, so fill up beforehand. Overnight camping is possible but should be arranged carefully, and conditions in Balochistan call for sensible planning.
The coastline here has a long history. Ships of Alexander the Great's fleet sailed past on the return from India, according to the ancient accounts, and fishing villages have worked these waters for centuries. Dolphins are sometimes seen from the shore, and the beaches further west host nesting sea turtles, so leave nothing on the sand.