Kirkjufell, which means Church Mountain, is a steep, isolated peak of about 460 metres beside the sea on the north coast of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, and it is probably the most photographed mountain in Iceland. It rises close to the little fishing town of Grundarfjordur, with a smooth, pointed outline that looks something like a witch's hat or an arrowhead, depending on the angle. You may recognise it from television, where it appeared as a mountain in a famous fantasy series.
The best view is from the small waterfall called Kirkjufellsfoss, just across the road, where the stream tumbles in a series of little cascades with the mountain framed behind it. Photographers come here from all over the world, especially in the evenings and during the northern lights season, so the car park can be busy. In summer the sun hangs low for hours, creating long, golden light on the rock, while in autumn and winter the green aurora ripples across the sky above it.
The riding to get here is a pleasure. Route 54 follows the northern shore of the peninsula past dark beaches, small harbours and wide bays, with the sea on one side and jagged mountains on the other. The surface is mostly good, with long straight stretches, and the traffic is usually light. Wind and rain are the main hazards, and the mountains can disappear in cloud within minutes, so be patient and wait for the weather to clear.
The mountain itself was formed by glaciers during the ice age, which carved away the softer layers of rock and left the harder core standing alone. It is possible to climb it, but the path is steep and exposed, and has been the scene of accidents, so it should be treated with real respect.
Fuel is available in Grundarfjordur, a few kilometres away, and in Olafsvik, and there are cafes and a small museum in the town. This makes a good finish to a day on the peninsula, with the mountain glowing in the late evening sun.