Snaefellsnes Peninsula Loop: Budir to Stykkisholmur
Budir to Stykkisholmur on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula Loop · one way, about 153 km back to the start
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Why this ride
From Ólafsvík it runs 153 km to Stykkishólmur; allow about 2 h 13 of riding. The stops in between: Arnarstapi, Snaefellsjokull and Kirkjufell. A steady touring day rather than a sprint.
Roadbook
- Budir
start
Budir is barely a place at all, a handful of buildings on the south coast of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, but it has one of the most photographed churches in Iceland. The little black wooden church, Budakirkja, stands alone on the edge of a lava field with the glacier far behind, and its tarred walls and white-framed windows look dramatic against the green moss and grey sky. The present building dates from the nineteenth century and was restored in the 1980s, and it has served the surrounding farms for generations.
The lava field itself, Budahraun, is a rough, moss-covered flow with twisted rock formations, hidden crevices and a thick carpet of lichen that glows green after rain. A path leads from the church toward the sea, where a pale beach and a small crater, Budaklettur, rise above the coast. In clear weather you can see the Snaefellsjokull glacier to the west and the mountains across the bay to the south. Birdlife is plentiful, with arctic terns, eider ducks and waders nesting on the shore in summer, so tread carefully in nesting season.
The road here, Route 54, follows the peninsula's southern shore, with generous curves, good tarmac and spectacular views of mountains and sea. The traffic is light apart from tour buses, and the wind is the main hazard. In rain or fog the visibility drops and the road can feel exposed, so keep your speed measured. In summer evenings, the light on the lava field is extraordinary, and photographers often wait for the right moment.
There is a hotel nearby that has been a stopping place for travellers for many years, and an old legend says that the area was the home of Bardur Snaefellsas, a half-troll, half-human figure who is said to watch over the peninsula. The nearest village of any size is Olafsvik, about seventeen kilometres to the west, so plan your fuel accordingly.
Stop for a while, walk down to the beach and listen to the surf and the birds. It is a place where the main thing to do is simply look.
- Arnarstapi
scenic
Arnarstapi is a tiny fishing village on the south side of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, and the best thing about it is the coast. Basalt cliffs rise from the sea in stacks, arches and hexagonal columns, and thousands of kittiwakes and fulmars nest on the ledges, wheeling and shrieking above the surf. A footpath runs along the top between Arnarstapi and the neighbouring settlement of Hellnar, about two and a half kilometres long, and it is one of the best short walks in west Iceland.
The cliffs are the work of old lava flows and fierce Atlantic storms, and the most famous feature is Gatklettur, a rock arch that the waves have cut right through. Near the harbour you will see a large stone statue of Bardur Snaefellsas, a legendary figure with a troll's strength and a human heart, who was said to have settled the peninsula and who still protects it. The small harbour has a few fishing boats, and in summer there are a couple of places for coffee and soup.
Riding here is wonderful when the weather behaves. Route 574 loops around the western tip of the peninsula, mostly on tarmac, passing lava fields, beaches and old fishing stations. Some stretches are gravel, particularly near the more remote beaches, so be prepared for loose surface and potholes. The wind is relentless, and showers sweep in off the sea in minutes, so pack a waterproof layer and keep your speed in check on the exposed bends.
Everything here sits within the Snaefellsjokull National Park, and the glacier can often be seen towering over the village on a clear day. Arctic terns defend their nests aggressively along the path in early summer, and they will dive at your helmet if you stray too close, so stay on the marked route. Seals are sometimes seen in the bay.
Fuel is not available in the village. The nearest larger settlements are Olafsvik and Hellissandur to the north, and they are the sensible places to fill up before you set off around the peninsula. Arnarstapi is a place to stand on the cliff edge, feel the spray and watch the birds, not to rush through.
- Snaefellsjokull
scenic
Snaefellsjokull is a glacier-capped volcano at the western tip of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, rising to 1,446 metres above the sea. On a clear day you can see it from Reykjavik, across the bay, a white dome floating above the horizon, and it is easily the most striking sight on the peninsula. Jules Verne chose it as the entrance for his Journey to the Centre of the Earth, which has helped to cement its fame, and many Icelanders believe the mountain has a special energy.
The volcano is still considered active, although it has not erupted for a very long time, and the ice cap is shrinking steadily. Around its base lies a landscape of black lava, moss, ash and craters, protected inside the Snaefellsjokull National Park. Route 574, which circles the western end of the peninsula, gives you the best access, and the views of the glacier change with every bend.
Along the coast to the south-west you can visit Djupalonssandur, a black pebble beach among jagged lava formations, where four lifting stones of different weights were used by fishermen to test their strength before being hired for a boat. The rusted remains of a trawler that was wrecked in the 1940s still lie scattered on the shore. Nearby, the tall rock pillars of Londrangar rise from the sea cliffs, the remains of volcanic plugs, and are home to colonies of seabirds.
The riding here is memorable. The road is mostly paved and well maintained, with open curves, long sight lines and quiet stretches, though some parts are rough and gravelly. The weather can change quickly, with cloud often hiding the summit and strong wind gusting from the sea.
Bring layers, because the temperature drops sharply with the wind, and enjoy the extraordinary scenery.
- Kirkjufell
scenic
Kirkjufell, which means Church Mountain, is a steep, isolated peak of about 460 metres beside the sea on the north coast of the Snaefellsnes peninsula, and it is probably the most photographed mountain in Iceland. It rises close to the little fishing town of Grundarfjordur, with a smooth, pointed outline that looks something like a witch's hat or an arrowhead, depending on the angle. You may recognise it from television, where it appeared as a mountain in a famous fantasy series.
The best view is from the small waterfall called Kirkjufellsfoss, just across the road, where the stream tumbles in a series of little cascades with the mountain framed behind it. Photographers come here from all over the world, especially in the evenings and during the northern lights season, so the car park can be busy. In summer the sun hangs low for hours, creating long, golden light on the rock, while in autumn and winter the green aurora ripples across the sky above it.
The riding to get here is a pleasure. Route 54 follows the northern shore of the peninsula past dark beaches, small harbours and wide bays, with the sea on one side and jagged mountains on the other. The surface is mostly good, with long straight stretches, and the traffic is usually light. Wind and rain are the main hazards, and the mountains can disappear in cloud within minutes, so be patient and wait for the weather to clear.
The mountain itself was formed by glaciers during the ice age, which carved away the softer layers of rock and left the harder core standing alone. It is possible to climb it, but the path is steep and exposed, and has been the scene of accidents, so it should be treated with real respect.
Fuel is available in Grundarfjordur, a few kilometres away, and in Olafsvik, and there are cafes and a small museum in the town. This makes a good finish to a day on the peninsula, with the mountain glowing in the late evening sun.
- Stykkisholmur
finish
Stykkisholmur is the main town of the northern Snaefellsnes peninsula, home to about eleven hundred people and perched on a rocky headland that shelters a snug little harbour. It looks out on Breidafjordur, a broad bay scattered with hundreds of small islands, and the view over the water is its great asset. The town has a pleasing mixture of old wooden houses, painted in bright colours, and a modern church whose white concrete shape rises above the harbour like a great seashell.
One of the oldest buildings is the Norwegian House, built in the nineteenth century from timber imported from Norway, which now holds a museum of local history. The Library of Water, a quiet art installation filled with columns of glacier water, sits in a former library on the hill. A short walk from the harbour takes you up Sugandisey, a little basalt island joined to the town by a causeway, with a lighthouse and a view over the bay. Scallops are fished here, and you can often eat them at a local restaurant.
The ferry Baldur sails from the harbour across Breidafjordur to the Westfjords, calling at the island of Flatey on the way, and offers a useful shortcut if you are heading to that part of the country. Check the timetable in advance, and book a space for the motorcycle in summer.
Fuel is available in town, together with a supermarket, a swimming pool and a handful of cafes and restaurants, so this is the natural place to refuel before or after the peninsula loop. The roads into town, Routes 54 and 58, are good tarmac with some sweeping bends, long climbs and descents and wide views over the water. Look out for sheep, and take care in crosswinds, particularly along the coast.
If the weather is fine, spend an hour at the harbour or climb the little island for the view. Seabirds and seals are common, and the evening light on the bay is something you will remember for a long time.