In the middle of busy central Seoul, behind a gate on Jongno street, lies a forest of trees and a long, low hall that seems to come from another world. Jongmyo is the royal ancestral shrine of the Joseon dynasty, which ruled Korea from 1392 to 1910, and its main hall, the Jeongjeon, houses the spirit tablets of kings and queens in a row of identical rooms behind a single facade of red pillars, stretching for more than a hundred metres. It is one of the longest wooden buildings of its kind in Asia, and its austerity is deeply impressive.
The Jongmyo Jerye, the royal ancestral rite, is still performed here every year on the first Sunday of May, with music, dance and offerings, by descendants of the royal family. The music and ritual are recognised by UNESCO as part of the intangible heritage of humanity, and the shrine itself is a World Heritage site. Visits are usually guided, except on certain days, so check the schedule. Next to the shrine, Changdeokgung palace and its secret garden are within walking distance.
Riding in central Seoul is a challenge. Traffic is dense, the streets are wide and full of buses and taxis, and delivery motorcycles weave between the cars. Motorcycles are banned from expressways and some major roads, so plan your route carefully. Parking is limited, but you can often find space near markets and side streets. Outside the city, the mountains around Seoul offer twisty roads and great views, especially in autumn. Summer is hot and humid with monsoon rains; winter is cold and dry.
Fuel, food and every service are easy to find. Opposite the shrine, Sewoon Sangga, a long electronics arcade from the 1960s, has been revived with workshops and cafés, and Gwangjang Market, a short walk away, is famous for its street food: bindaetteok, mung bean pancakes, mayak gimbap, small rice rolls, and raw beef. The area around Jongmyo is also a favourite of older men who gather in the park to play chess and talk. Walk through the shrine slowly, sit under the trees, and listen to the city noise fading away; it is one of the most peaceful places in Seoul.