The Grand Canal of China is the longest artificial waterway in the world, a chain of canals and rivers linking Beijing with Hangzhou that was begun in sections well over two thousand years ago and unified under the Sui dynasty in the seventh century. Its southernmost stretch, the Jiangnan Canal, crosses the flat, watery plain between Jiaxing and Hangzhou, and this section is part of the UNESCO World Heritage site. Grain, silk and salt moved north along it for centuries, and the towns that line its banks grew rich on that traffic.
The landscape is the classic Jiangnan picture: canals with stone humpback bridges, whitewashed houses with black tiled roofs, mulberry fields that once fed the silk industry, and fish ponds stretching to the horizon. It is completely flat and intensely farmed, with factories and new housing pressing in from every side, so the old beauty comes in pockets rather than wide vistas. Water towns such as Wuzhen to the north and Tangqi near Linping keep stretches of the old canal townscape, though they can be very crowded at weekends.
Riding here takes preparation. Foreign riders need a Chinese driving licence and properly registered bikes; temporary permits for overland travellers usually require an organised tour with a guide. Hangzhou restricts motorcycles in its urban areas, and motorcycles are generally not allowed on expressways in much of China, so you will use the older national and provincial roads, which are often busy with trucks, scooters and electric bikes. Stay alert at junctions, where right of way is a matter of interpretation.
Food makes up for a lot. Jiaxing is famous for zongzi, sticky rice dumplings wrapped in leaves, and Hangzhou's cuisine, from Dongpo pork to Longjing tea shrimp, is among the most refined in China. Fuel stations are plentiful along major roads. Spring, with mild weather and blossoming trees, and autumn are the best times; summer is hot and very humid, and the plum rains of June can be relentless.