Jasper is a mountain town of about four thousand people in the heart of the Canadian Rockies, and it feels like it was built on a wild animal path. Elk wander across lawns and down the main street, deer graze in gardens and signs warn of bears. The Athabasca River runs past the town below ridges of grey limestone, and the Jasper Park Lodge, a grand old resort on Beauvert Lake, sits among spruce just beyond. In July 2024 a major wildfire swept into town and destroyed a large number of buildings, and the community has been rebuilding since, so it is worth checking current conditions and services before planning a stay.
The Yellowhead Highway, Highway 16, leaves town to the west and is a rider's delight. It follows the Miette and Fraser rivers through the park, then crosses the Yellowhead Pass at about 1,130 metres, a low and gentle crossing of the Continental Divide that marks the boundary between Alberta and British Columbia. The pass is named for a fur trader known as Tête Jaune, or Yellow Head, who is said to have used it in the early nineteenth century. The road is broad and smooth, with sweeping views, long curves, and forests of lodgepole pine and spruce running up to snow-streaked peaks. It is a relaxed ride rather than a technical one.
The great sight along the way is Mount Robson, which at 3,954 metres is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, and its flanks are often wrapped in cloud, so a clear view is a lucky thing. Waterfalls spill from glaciers on the face, and a trail leads to Berg Lake, with its floating icebergs. The valley around Robson is also home to the Fraser River, which begins in the nearby mountains. Weather matters here: summers are warm, with long daylight until late, while snow can fall in the passes in September, and by November the highway can be icy.
The road from Jasper to McBride goes through the small community of Tête Jaune Cache and Valemount, and the distances between towns are long. Jasper has fuel stations, shops and restaurants, though capacity may be limited after the fire, and Valemount, about a hundred and twenty kilometres west, has more. Fill up before leaving, since there are few stations in between. Wildlife on the road is the main danger, particularly at dawn and dusk, when moose, elk and bears appear without warning.