The Joseon dynasty ruled Korea for over five hundred years, and its kings and queens were buried in carefully chosen spots around the capital, in tombs designed according to Confucian ritual and the principles of geomancy, with a hill behind, water in front and mountains framing the view. In 2009, forty of these tombs were listed by UNESCO as the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty. Jangneung, in Gimpo, just west of Seoul, is the tomb of Wonjong, the father of King Injo, who was elevated to royal rank after his death. It is a quiet, wooded place, with a grassy burial mound, stone statues of officials and animals, and a T-shaped shrine where ancestral rites were held.
The tombs are popular with locals for walks, and the forests around them, protected for centuries, are rich in old trees and birdlife. The approach to each tomb follows a stone path that splits into two: the slightly raised one on the left was for the spirits, the lower one on the right for the king. Visitors are asked to walk on the lower path, out of respect.
Gimpo lies at the mouth of the Han River, where it meets the Yellow Sea, and the area is a mix of new apartment blocks, farmland and wetlands. To the north, just across the estuary, lies North Korea, and the riverbanks are lined with fences and guard posts. The island of Ganghwa, a short ride west, has a rich history, with fortresses, dolmens and temples, and is a popular day trip from Seoul.
Riding in Korea comes with one big rule: motorcycles are banned from the expressways, so you will use the national and local roads, which can be busy and full of traffic lights. Around Gimpo and Seoul, traffic is heavy, but the roads to Ganghwa and along the coast are quieter, with views of mudflats and fishing villages. Gimpo has fuel, convenience stores and restaurants everywhere. Try a bowl of naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles, or grilled eel, a local favourite along the Han estuary.